From 10:30 a.m. until 2 p.m. daily, carts roll through the huge, slightly shabby Gold Mountain restaurant, bearing bamboo steamers full of freshly prepared dim sum. (Between 2 and 3, you can order from a one-page menu listing more than three dozen kinds.) Most of San Francisco's other favorite dim sum parlors are scattered across the city in places as varied as the Financial District and the Sunset. But Gold Mountain flies the dim sum flag proudly, right in Chinatown. On weekends, there are two additional floors to seat the overflow crowds. The price is right ($2-$2.80 for three dumplings), and the dim sum are well made, too. Favorites include shrimp-and-chive dumplings, which look like beggars' purses tied up with a chive; fat minced beef balls; Shanghai steamed pork dumplings; and shrimp-and-pork siu mai topped with whole shrimp. There's also wonderful wor wonton soup. "As good as Beijing," one world traveler said.